Initial Impressions- Russet Horsehide Boots by John Doe Shoes

Boot Specs:
Size: 9.5
Brogue Cap Toe 420 Last
Vegetable-Tanned, Russet Horsehide Leather from Horween
360 Goodyear Welt
Commando Rubber Halfsole and Heel
EVA/Cork/Leather Midsole
Steel Shank
Leather Lined Interior
Metal Speedhooks & Eyelets
Made in Mexico

Natural Russet Horsehide Boots *Photo from John Doe Shoes

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I had been eyeing these particular boots for sometime.  The fact that Russet Horsehide Leather Boots are not made by any other company (that I know of) and John Doe's own description of the leather peaked my interest.  If Horween themselves advised against using this leather to make boots, then why did John Doe Shoes do it and what are the benefits?

Horsehide Strips *Picture from Horween Leather Company

Before answering that question, let's look at what Russet Horsehide Leather is.  The leather is from a "strip" along the horse's backside that is above the "shells" used to make Shell Cordovan Leather.  At Horween, this strip is vegetable tanned for 45 days and is known for its tight fiber structure.  Russet Horsehide is commonly used for moldable items such as holsters and sheaths.  Suffice to say, John Doe Shoes took a big risk making boots with this particular leather!

Looking at the boots, they are a beautiful tan color.  I have owned the 420 Last before and find it to be like most service boot models; not to slim but certainly not bulbous either.  There is triple stitching along the vamp and counter and has a partially gusseted tongue.  A cotton set of laces came with the boot but I switched them out for these Emerald Green beauties by Pisgah Range LTD.  The commando half sole/rubber heel add some nice traction and surprisingly, not that much girth to the boots.  While the outsole isn't from a famous company such as Vibram or Dainite, it does its job and only time will tell how it holds up compared to the larger brands.  Out of the box, I would rate the grip better than my Chippewa Service Boots, that use the Vibram 700 V-Bar, and better than Thursday Boots' own rubber soles.   However I would rank them a notch below the Vibram 430 Mini-Lug (common on Red Wing Heritage Boots).

They Look Great With Light Color Pants...

... And Dark Jeans

Natural, Undyed Boots

Most of my boots are size 9 but John Doe Shoes, at least their 420 Last, runs pretty true to size and the 9.5 is a good fit (Note: toe box does run long).  Anibal and Cuitlahuac Ortiz, the founders of John Doe Shoes, told me to "take it easy" with these boots at first.  There is statement on the company website that make it clear that it takes time for these boots to break in.  Me, being stubborn, decided to wear them the whole first day (about 12 hours) I received them.

Needless to say, the Ortiz's where right.  I went for a walk, worked in them, and took the dogs out on the first day which led to my heels and feet being sore that night...  And for a few nights after.  This leather is tough!  The rest of my boots are made with cowhide leather and the majority, save for the 1892 Thorogood Natural Nantucket Janesvilles, are not straight vegetable-tanned.  Vegetable-tanning, while usually considered to be the 'best' kind of tannage, isn't as flexible as other leathers.  Even my Iron Ranger 8085s, which are made with Red Wing's own 'Copper Rough & Tough' Leather (oil-tanned), bend easier and had a better break in period!

Despite wearing these everyday for the past week and a half, the boots have just started developing creases at the flex point!  However, they have become more comfortable (or I have just gotten use to the pain haha) and the only sore spot is on my right heel.  The 420 Last has a squared off shaft at the counter which makes for a somewhat weird fit around the ankles. 

The counter is the only place I found quality control issues as both are stitched unevenly and at a slight angle.  They match though and considering how hard this leather is to work with it doesn't really bother me (my jeans cover them anyways when wearing them).  I did have a speed-hook fall off but that was more my fault as I caught it on the edge of a table.  Hey, it happens.  Both of these issues are cosmetic and do not effect the durability.  In my opinion, that is more important. 

These boots will last a long time and they will keep evolving.  I have really gotten into natural, undyed leather boots lately as they have the most patina potential.  These Russet Horsehide Boots from John Doe Shoes are no exception.  The unique grain patterns on the leather pop out the more I wear them which is something I just don't see on my cowhide boots.  As this pair breaks in, the leather will to start to show even more character and darken.  I think that is what I am most excited about: the great stories these boots will tell for me over the years.

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