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Product Spotlights

Initial Impressions- 1947 501 Jeans by Levi's Vintage Clothing

5/30/2019

1 Comment

 
Jean Specs:
Model: 501
100% Cotton, 12 oz. Red Selvedge Denim from Cone Mills
New Rinse- Dark Wash
Big "E" Reb Tab
Button Fly
Watch Pocket w/Rivets
Double Stitched Arcuate on Back Pockets
Hidden Back Pocket Rivets
Signature Leather Patch
Made in Turkey

PC9 Code: 475010168
LEVIS 1947 501s
*Photo from Lost & Found

The LVC 501

The 501 is Levi's most famous, sought after model.  It was the original, the one that started it all.  The fit that so many other brands recreate and mimic.  True vintage 501s can go for a pretty penny and are the pair that thrifters, collectors, and denimheads around the world look to find in the 2nd hand stores.  
LEVI'S® VINTAGE CLOTHING (LVC) is one of the brand's higher end lines that offers a taste of the company's historic past for those who don't want to spend hours going through old clothing racks or spend thousands of dollars.  The 501 has gone through many variations throughout the years and has changed due to wars, lack of raw material, and the economy.  Just as tough as the denim itself, the 501 has made it through it all!   

​The different 501 LVC models, excluding the 1947, are below:
1890
1890
1933 501
1933
1937
1937
1944
1944
1954
1954
1955
1955
1966
1966
1976
1976
*All Photos Above from Union Made
Levi's has even done "special edition" models for various anniversaries that are released on May 20th (called "501® Day" to commemorate the date of the 501 patent):
145th Year Special Edition
145th Year Special Edition
146th Year Special Edition
146th Year Special Edition
*All Photos Above from High Snobiety
All of these models and we are not even taking into account all of the other 501 models that Levi's has come out with!  If you are looking to get a pair of 501s that are selvedge, and possibly raw, the LVC models are what the brand currently offers.  Unfortunately, you have to be more diligent if you want a pair that is "Made in the USA" from this collection because like most Levi's jeans these days, most of them are imported.  In my opinion, it is really is a shame for this 'heritage' line.

Initial Impressions of the 1947

Levi's states that in 1947, the 501 jeans changed and became more like the current ones you see today.  The fit became slimmer, the cinch and suspender buttons were removed, and the watch pockets had rivets again.  The denim used back then was from the famed, and now closed, White Oak Cone Mills Plant in North Carolina.  In addition, all of jeans were made in the United States.  Today, the reproduction of the 1947 501 is mostly made with Cone Denim, not White Oak Cone Denim; an important side note as Cone Denim is usually associated with United States production.  However, if you are lucky enough, you could score a pair with the infamous 'White Oak' label. 
501's with John Doe Shoes Horsehide
John Doe Shoes Service Boots and 501s
John Doe and Levi's
The 1947 501s are currently available in New Rinse- Dark Wash and Rigid (raw).  It is important to note that the differences between the two are not only that the Rigid is raw and Shrink-to-Fit, but also that the New Rinse is retailed $45 cheaper.  The Rigid pair will also fade better because it is raw.  However, after speaking with Levi's, the Dark Wash 1947s has a tendency to produce fades as well overtime.  Just don't expect them to be as prevalent and have that 'starchy' feel upon first wear.
The model I have is the Dark Wash and was comfortable right away.  The fit is perfect and I got my usual size 32" waist.  Regular rises seem to suit my frame better as well as slim straight fits.  The inseam is also 32" which I thought I might need to get hemmed to around 29"-30" but the length is perfect on the 1947 501s for some double cuffing without appearing too obnoxious.  
Levi's and Red Wing's
Two Icons: the Levi's 501s & the Red Wing Iron Rangers
Now to the hot topic with Levi's, the quality control and overall craftsmanship.  This particular 1947 501 pair is pretty good, save for some minor stitching imperfections.  However, at a retail cost of $240 or $285, I expect these to be made better.  The overlock stitching on the inseam and fly, not to mention where it is made, for this price point is rather ridiculous.  Yes, they are supposed to be made the "exact same way" (I could not find any  concrete information on the inseam and fly stitching from that era), but from what I have read, flat-felled seams and the single needle-felled seams were used more until recently (overlock stitching is the fastest to produce).  Regardless, the current product should have a lower price.
If you are looking for something at a better price point, there are many alternatives out-there that model this exact pair.  For example, Sugar Cane has their "1947" design which is made in Japan and retails at $199.  Other "entry level" brands, such as Unbranded, Brave Star Selvage, and United Stock Dry Goods, have better construction, a more ethical (in some cases) supply chain,  and all can be found for under $100.  It seems you are paying a hefty price for the LVC 1947 501s to get the Levi's brand name.  
Urban Shepherd and Levi's 501s
With Urban Shepherd Country Boots
Don't get me wrong, these are a nice pair of jeans for those who want to feel like they are owning a piece of history (so to speak) and rock the brand and model that started it all.  The fit is good, the fabric feels great, and the construction is solid.  If the price point was lower, I would say that these are a very nice pair of jeans.  However, since Levi's feels that their name is worth more money than the actual quality of their products, you are better off finding these second-hand or during a sale.
Jeans I Own that Replicate the 501 and are Very Well Crafted:
Kerbside & Co.
Kerbside & Co. Kennedy Jeans
Warehouse & Co Lot 1001 Jeans
Warehouse & Co Lot 1001 Jeans *Photo from Clutch Cafe
Companion Piece: (Some) Alternatives to Levi's Vintage Clothing 501s
1 Comment

Railcar Goods Spikes X034 Selvedge Jeans First Impressions

5/21/2019

0 Comments

 
Jean Specs:
  • Slim Straight Fit
  • 100% Cotton, 16.5 oz.
  • Railcar Super Slub Proprietary Denim
  • Redline Selvedge ID
  • Raw (Sanforized)
  • Branded Copper Hardware
  • Hidden Back Pocket Rivets
  • Bottom Hem Chainstitching
  • Double Waist Band (to help reduce stretch)
  • Flat-felled Inseam
  • Natural Veg. Tanned Leather Patch
  • Made in the USA
Picture
*Photo from Railcar Fine Goods

About the Company

Railcar Fine Goods was started by Steven Dang in 2010 and operates out of Monrovia, California.  Every garment is made in house by a small team of crafters that use vintage equipment to replicate the quality of clothing made long ago.  In addition to denim goods, the brand sells footwear by heritage brands such as Red Wing Shoes and Wolverine.  Other items for sale on their website include denim care products, accessories, and they even have their very own Barbershop!  If you need your denim tailored and your shoes resoled, Railcar offers these service as well!
Logo

Impressions

I had been checking out the Railcar Fine Goods jeans at Mildblend Supply Co. and came away impressed with the build quality and the fabric.  When I was finally able to get a pair on my legs, they did not disappoint!  The slub denim, even at 16.5 oz. (it seems to be available in 15 oz. weight as well at some retailers), was comfortable right away, before and after the initial soak.  With raw denim being known to require a break in, this came as a pleasant surprise, especially at the higher end of the mid-weight category.  
Picture
Perfect with Natural Veg. Tanned Leather Boots
The Spikes X034 Model is slim-tapered and is made with fabric from a mill in Turkey that was designed specifically for Railcar Fine Goods.  What drew me to this pair was the 'slubbiness' and the fact that I find 15-17oz. to be the perfect weight for me three out of the four months of the year (excluding summer).  My 3sixteen NT-15x jeans are the same weight and also made with plenty of slub.  While that pair beats the X034 in term of looks in my opinion, I find the X034s to be more comfortable and feel lighter in weight.
From what I have read by others online, the X034 is a relatively slow fader.  I have been wearing my pair four to five times a week for the last month and have noticed some indigo rub off on the belt loops and fly. If you like 'crocking' from you jeans to your shoes/boots (especially natural vegetable-tanned pairs), then I would say this model is for you as there is plenty of indigo dye on these to go around!  I have seen suggestions to be wary around light colored furniture while wearing these but I have not had any issues with dye transfer on my tan couch and chair.  It is important to note though that I did do an initial soak (Yes, I know these are sanforized) which can help keep indigo fabric transfer to a minimum.  
Full Pair
X034s with my EDC
My Spikes X034 are a size 32" and has a standard inseam of 34" (32" on waist sizes 28" and 29") and mine are hemmed to 29.5" which seems to be just right (I am 5'9").  I am really impressed with the overall fit which not only looks great, but is as comfortable as sweatpants!  With the top notch construction, I can see this pair of jeans ones that I will be wearing for along time!
Purchase the Spikes X034 16.5 oz. from Railcar Fine Goods
Purchase the Spikes X034 15 oz. from Context Clothing
Fit Pics:
With Parkhurst Boots
Fit Pic
With Thorogood Boots
With Chippewa Boots
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