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Product Spotlights

The Red Wing Heritage 9435 Williston Boots Initial Impressions

7/18/2019

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Boot Specs:
Size: 9.5
Leather: Teak Featherstone
Outsole: Gro-Cord 
Midsole: Cork Bed
Insole: Leather w/Heel Pad
Leather-Lined Interior
Shank: Fiberglass
Hardware: Black Eyelets
270 Goodyear Welt
Made in the U.S.A.
​Last: 220
Red Wing 9435s
*Photo from Red Wing Heritage

Initial Impressions

I was in a panic. My wedding was a week away and the boots I thought I would be wearing had a production delay and would not be arriving in time. I pondered getting some cheap boots or dress shoes but that is wasteful as I would never wear them again (being a boot snob and all). Haven't had any luck at Nordstrom Rack in the past but being desperate, I stopped by there just to see if by chance, I could find a somewhat decent pair of brown dress boots. On sale/factory seconds To Boot New York, Cole Haan, and Gordon Rush were my targets. If I was lucky, maybe I'd find some Allen Edmonds!
Fortunately, I did get lucky and happened to find the perfect boots for my wedding. A pair of boots (in my size no less!) that I would not only wear for dress up occasions, but that also go well with my usual raw denim attire: the Red Wing 9435 Williston Boots in Teak Featherstone Leather (Factory seconds, only "issue" is that the welt stitching isn't even) for $199.99. I was so excited! The wedding went great (it would have with or without the boots... I just love boots) and was one of the best days of my life! Also, this happened:
Terrified Red Wings
Showing Off the Gro-Cord Soles... Haha *Photo by Infallible Proofs
When Red Wing came out with the Williston Boots, I thought they were quite the lookers. They seem to be Red Wing's answer to the dress/work boot hybrid models that have become so popular lately. If you want a pair of Red Wings but don't want the bulbous toe, the Willistons are the boot for you. The only issue is that $429.99 price tag. That seems a little steep, especially with how crowded the boot market has become in recent years. So are the Willistons worth a full $110 up-charge from their most famous boot, the Iron Ranger?
The answer is of course, quite subjective. If you love collecting Red Wings, you will probably find these boots a must as they feature some "upgrades" that the rest of the Heritage Line does not have. The fully leather-lined interior and heel pad make for a much more comfortable, out-of-the-box wear. The infamous Red Wing break-in period was not needed with these boots. The Gro-Cord sole (also on the beautiful, yet rare 9060s) is quiet and has really good grip although it does not provide as subtle of a silhouette as a fully leather sole or nitrile cork. Personally, I would gladly take the grip of the Gro-Cord over something slimmer but that is just my taste (and because of Chicago's weather).
Oni and Red Wing
Perfect with Jeans
Comfort is also more prevalent in the Williston's than other Red Wings when it comes to shock absorption. My Iron Rangers fall flat in this area, as do my Blacksmiths, so it was a nice surprise to own a pair of Red Wings that excels with shock absorption! I wouldn't rank them as high as my Thorogood Boots, especially my Indigo Beloits, but the Willistons do beat out half of my other boots in this arena. I contribute the better shock absorption to the inclusion of the heel pad and the fiberglass shank over a steel shank (makes the boots lighter as well).
Red Wing's with belt
A Perfect Match! The Red Wing 9435s with a Carmine Jack Leather Oak Tan Bridle Belt in Dark Stain
Another plus for the Williston is the smaller eyelets and that there are eight sets on each boot and not seven (like most Red Wings). The size of the eyelets and the addition of an extra pair help make the boots more formal. I switched out the standard Red Wing laces recently for round dress ones. For the wedding, I went with the derby shoe, straight bar lacing look. Since then, I have switched back to the standard diagonal style.
The standard lacing style also helps with getting the boots on and off, which can be a chore. A shoe horn is definitely necessary! Often, I find myself unlacing half the boot in order to slide my foot in (even with the use of a shoe horn). This little annoyance takes nothing away from the quality or wear of the boots. However, it is something worth noting because if you get your usual Red Wing size, getting the boots on and off will be even more of a hassle. These boots are meant to run true-to-size (9.5) as opposed to a half to full size down like other Red Wings. 
Taking a look at the leather, it is not meant to be a leather you work to patina and want to get dirty on a regular basis. It falls under Red Wing's "Smooth-Finished" category and it is a pretty accurate description as the leather is indeed, quite smooth. While it lacks some personal identity compared to Red Wing's other leathers (like the "Rough & Tough" Leathers) you can see the pores on the toes of both boots which adds a little individual character in my eyes without taking away from the dressier look. While the boots are more formal, the leather doesn't need to be cuddled. After doing my normal conditioning routine, the boots have not really taken on many scratches after five wears and have maintained its lustrous shine. I would not recommend hiking in these boots but they are perfect for everyday wear.
Stock Laces
First Wear with Stock Laces
I would recommend shoe trees for the Willistons as the Teak Featherstone does seem to crease easier (for me) than other Red Wing leathers. My 8085s and 3345s (also "Smooth Finished") didn't really crease for a solid month of every other day wear. Of course, there are a variety of reasons for this creasing and it is important to remember that creased leather does not necessarily mean bad leather. One of the more likely variables is how the 220 Last fits my foot so it'll be different for everyone on an individual basis.
Overall, I would recommend the Williston's if you can get factory seconds or on sale. They are great dress boots that seem a lot "hardier" than other brands but the retail of $429.99 is steep for most people. I am glad Red Wing decided to experiment with a different design and add a style with such a slim toe. Even the Sheldon and Merchant look bulbous next to the Willistons. The little things, like a heel pad, are nice touches. However, do they really push the margins of the boots that high? Don't get me wrong, I am over the moon that I found them at the Rack and got to wear a boot brand I love at my wedding. If the retail price was closer to the Iron Rangers, I would say these are a must for Red Wing lovers. So if you see these for a deal, grab them! Or wait for Red Wing to (hopefully) lower the price.
Red Wing Collection: 3345s, 9935s, 8085s
My Small Red Wing Collection: 3345s, 9435s, 8085s
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Initial Impressions- 1947 501 Jeans by Levi's Vintage Clothing

5/30/2019

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Jean Specs:
Model: 501
100% Cotton, 12 oz. Red Selvedge Denim from Cone Mills
New Rinse- Dark Wash
Big "E" Reb Tab
Button Fly
Watch Pocket w/Rivets
Double Stitched Arcuate on Back Pockets
Hidden Back Pocket Rivets
Signature Leather Patch
Made in Turkey

PC9 Code: 475010168
LEVIS 1947 501s
*Photo from Lost & Found

The LVC 501

The 501 is Levi's most famous, sought after model.  It was the original, the one that started it all.  The fit that so many other brands recreate and mimic.  True vintage 501s can go for a pretty penny and are the pair that thrifters, collectors, and denimheads around the world look to find in the 2nd hand stores.  
LEVI'S® VINTAGE CLOTHING (LVC) is one of the brand's higher end lines that offers a taste of the company's historic past for those who don't want to spend hours going through old clothing racks or spend thousands of dollars.  The 501 has gone through many variations throughout the years and has changed due to wars, lack of raw material, and the economy.  Just as tough as the denim itself, the 501 has made it through it all!   

​The different 501 LVC models, excluding the 1947, are below:
1890
1890
1933 501
1933
1937
1937
1944
1944
1954
1954
1955
1955
1966
1966
1976
1976
*All Photos Above from Union Made
Levi's has even done "special edition" models for various anniversaries that are released on May 20th (called "501® Day" to commemorate the date of the 501 patent):
145th Year Special Edition
145th Year Special Edition
146th Year Special Edition
146th Year Special Edition
*All Photos Above from High Snobiety
All of these models and we are not even taking into account all of the other 501 models that Levi's has come out with!  If you are looking to get a pair of 501s that are selvedge, and possibly raw, the LVC models are what the brand currently offers.  Unfortunately, you have to be more diligent if you want a pair that is "Made in the USA" from this collection because like most Levi's jeans these days, most of them are imported.  In my opinion, it is really is a shame for this 'heritage' line.

Initial Impressions of the 1947

Levi's states that in 1947, the 501 jeans changed and became more like the current ones you see today.  The fit became slimmer, the cinch and suspender buttons were removed, and the watch pockets had rivets again.  The denim used back then was from the famed, and now closed, White Oak Cone Mills Plant in North Carolina.  In addition, all of jeans were made in the United States.  Today, the reproduction of the 1947 501 is mostly made with Cone Denim, not White Oak Cone Denim; an important side note as Cone Denim is usually associated with United States production.  However, if you are lucky enough, you could score a pair with the infamous 'White Oak' label. 
501's with John Doe Shoes Horsehide
John Doe Shoes Service Boots and 501s
John Doe and Levi's
The 1947 501s are currently available in New Rinse- Dark Wash and Rigid (raw).  It is important to note that the differences between the two are not only that the Rigid is raw and Shrink-to-Fit, but also that the New Rinse is retailed $45 cheaper.  The Rigid pair will also fade better because it is raw.  However, after speaking with Levi's, the Dark Wash 1947s has a tendency to produce fades as well overtime.  Just don't expect them to be as prevalent and have that 'starchy' feel upon first wear.
The model I have is the Dark Wash and was comfortable right away.  The fit is perfect and I got my usual size 32" waist.  Regular rises seem to suit my frame better as well as slim straight fits.  The inseam is also 32" which I thought I might need to get hemmed to around 29"-30" but the length is perfect on the 1947 501s for some double cuffing without appearing too obnoxious.  
Levi's and Red Wing's
Two Icons: the Levi's 501s & the Red Wing Iron Rangers
Now to the hot topic with Levi's, the quality control and overall craftsmanship.  This particular 1947 501 pair is pretty good, save for some minor stitching imperfections.  However, at a retail cost of $240 or $285, I expect these to be made better.  The overlock stitching on the inseam and fly, not to mention where it is made, for this price point is rather ridiculous.  Yes, they are supposed to be made the "exact same way" (I could not find any  concrete information on the inseam and fly stitching from that era), but from what I have read, flat-felled seams and the single needle-felled seams were used more until recently (overlock stitching is the fastest to produce).  Regardless, the current product should have a lower price.
If you are looking for something at a better price point, there are many alternatives out-there that model this exact pair.  For example, Sugar Cane has their "1947" design which is made in Japan and retails at $199.  Other "entry level" brands, such as Unbranded, Brave Star Selvage, and United Stock Dry Goods, have better construction, a more ethical (in some cases) supply chain,  and all can be found for under $100.  It seems you are paying a hefty price for the LVC 1947 501s to get the Levi's brand name.  
Urban Shepherd and Levi's 501s
With Urban Shepherd Country Boots
Don't get me wrong, these are a nice pair of jeans for those who want to feel like they are owning a piece of history (so to speak) and rock the brand and model that started it all.  The fit is good, the fabric feels great, and the construction is solid.  If the price point was lower, I would say that these are a very nice pair of jeans.  However, since Levi's feels that their name is worth more money than the actual quality of their products, you are better off finding these second-hand or during a sale.
Jeans I Own that Replicate the 501 and are Very Well Crafted:
Kerbside & Co.
Kerbside & Co. Kennedy Jeans
Warehouse & Co Lot 1001 Jeans
Warehouse & Co Lot 1001 Jeans *Photo from Clutch Cafe
Companion Piece: (Some) Alternatives to Levi's Vintage Clothing 501s
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Railcar Goods Spikes X034 Selvedge Jeans First Impressions

5/21/2019

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Jean Specs:
  • Slim Straight Fit
  • 100% Cotton, 16.5 oz.
  • Railcar Super Slub Proprietary Denim
  • Redline Selvedge ID
  • Raw (Sanforized)
  • Branded Copper Hardware
  • Hidden Back Pocket Rivets
  • Bottom Hem Chainstitching
  • Double Waist Band (to help reduce stretch)
  • Flat-felled Inseam
  • Natural Veg. Tanned Leather Patch
  • Made in the USA
Picture
*Photo from Railcar Fine Goods

About the Company

Railcar Fine Goods was started by Steven Dang in 2010 and operates out of Monrovia, California.  Every garment is made in house by a small team of crafters that use vintage equipment to replicate the quality of clothing made long ago.  In addition to denim goods, the brand sells footwear by heritage brands such as Red Wing Shoes and Wolverine.  Other items for sale on their website include denim care products, accessories, and they even have their very own Barbershop!  If you need your denim tailored and your shoes resoled, Railcar offers these service as well!
Logo

Impressions

I had been checking out the Railcar Fine Goods jeans at Mildblend Supply Co. and came away impressed with the build quality and the fabric.  When I was finally able to get a pair on my legs, they did not disappoint!  The slub denim, even at 16.5 oz. (it seems to be available in 15 oz. weight as well at some retailers), was comfortable right away, before and after the initial soak.  With raw denim being known to require a break in, this came as a pleasant surprise, especially at the higher end of the mid-weight category.  
Picture
Perfect with Natural Veg. Tanned Leather Boots
The Spikes X034 Model is slim-tapered and is made with fabric from a mill in Turkey that was designed specifically for Railcar Fine Goods.  What drew me to this pair was the 'slubbiness' and the fact that I find 15-17oz. to be the perfect weight for me three out of the four months of the year (excluding summer).  My 3sixteen NT-15x jeans are the same weight and also made with plenty of slub.  While that pair beats the X034 in term of looks in my opinion, I find the X034s to be more comfortable and feel lighter in weight.
From what I have read by others online, the X034 is a relatively slow fader.  I have been wearing my pair four to five times a week for the last month and have noticed some indigo rub off on the belt loops and fly. If you like 'crocking' from you jeans to your shoes/boots (especially natural vegetable-tanned pairs), then I would say this model is for you as there is plenty of indigo dye on these to go around!  I have seen suggestions to be wary around light colored furniture while wearing these but I have not had any issues with dye transfer on my tan couch and chair.  It is important to note though that I did do an initial soak (Yes, I know these are sanforized) which can help keep indigo fabric transfer to a minimum.  
Full Pair
X034s with my EDC
My Spikes X034 are a size 32" and has a standard inseam of 34" (32" on waist sizes 28" and 29") and mine are hemmed to 29.5" which seems to be just right (I am 5'9").  I am really impressed with the overall fit which not only looks great, but is as comfortable as sweatpants!  With the top notch construction, I can see this pair of jeans ones that I will be wearing for along time!
Purchase the Spikes X034 16.5 oz. from Railcar Fine Goods
Purchase the Spikes X034 15 oz. from Context Clothing
Fit Pics:
With Parkhurst Boots
Fit Pic
With Thorogood Boots
With Chippewa Boots
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The Red Wing Heritage 3345 Blacksmiths Two Month Impressions

4/2/2019

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Red Wing Blacksmith 3345
The Redwing Heritage 3345 Blacksmiths

Boot Specs:

Size: 9
Leather: Black Prairie
Outsole: Vibram 430 Mini-lug 
Midsole: Cork Bed
Insole: Leather
Shank: Steel
Hardware Color: Dull Brass
270 Goodyear Welt
Made in the U.S.A.
​Last: 8


Franklin & Poe
Available at Franklin & Poe *Photo by Franklin & Poe

About the Blacksmith Model

The Blacksmith is a fairly new model released by Red Wing Heritage and from what I have read, is meant to take the place of the much beloved Beckman.  Both models are made on the popular No. 8 Last and are plain toe.  One key difference is the Vibram 430 Mini-Lug on the Blacksmiths versus the Roccia Sole on the Beckman.  The Beckman is known as more of a "dressy" boot while the Blacksmith is more for casual wear.  
From the Red Wing Heritage Website:
Versatile and reliable, this style of shoe was originally used in farm fields and blacksmith workshops during the day before being cleaned and shined up for a night out on the town. The extra height of this 6-inch style, which would have protected feet and ankles from hot cinders at the forge, still keeps out snow in the winter and dirt in the summer, and its last-built construction keeps feet comfortable even after long hours of work.
Dark California and the Blacksmiths
The Blacksmith with a Quick Release Belt by Dark California

Impressions After Two Months of Wear

I love this boot!  It was love at first sight when I saw these at my local Red Wing Store.  The employee told me they only had one pair...  In my size!  So I immediately got it (along with some Moc-Toe 3371s for the lady) and have been wearing them religiously for the past couple of months.
Blacksmiths 1
Blacksmiths 2
Blacksmiths 3
Blacksmiths 4
Pictured with ST-120x Jeans made by 3sixteen
The main attraction to the 3345s was the tea-core leather.  Tea-core leather is dyed twice.  For the Black Prairie Leather, S.B. Foot Tanning Co. dyes the leather brown and then puts a layer of black dye on the top of the hide (I probably way oversimplified the process but you get the gist).  As the leather ages, the black starts to wear away revealing the boots "true" color.  The Beckman 9060s, which are made of Klondike Leather, are well known for this feature and are one of the more sought after Red Wing Heritage Boots.  However, the model is uncommon in the States so I was thrilled to find a boot with similar characteristics in the Blacksmith 3345s.  Having not handled the Klondike Leather in person, I cannot tell you the differences I see between that and the Black Prairie Leather.  It seems, according to others, that the Klondike Leather has more of a shine and polished look compared to the Black Prairie.  
3sixteens Blacksmith
While some of the brown has shown through in spots, this boot does make you work for that patina.  Personally, I enjoy that and the boots, currently, are great for a casual night out.  As they age, I can see them becoming more of a "beat 'em up pair" that really tell a story about where they have been and what they have done!  Right now, I usually wear the boots with a black belt and darker denim, especially my NT-15x by 3sixteen which are quite "slubby."
Unlike my Iron Ranger 8085s, the Blacksmiths really did not have much of a break-in period.  I found that to be odd as both models are built using the same last and have the same insole/midsole/steel shank/outsole combination.  However, the "Smooth-Finished Leather"on the Blacksmith is much more supple than the 8085s' "Rough & Tough Oil-Tanned Leather" and conformed to my feet easily.  Also, the backstay and counter of the Blacksmiths aren't reinforced with additional leather like the Iron Rangers and feature a nice, smooth cuff at the top.  The result is a a boot that hugs the ankle nicely and, in my opinion, provides more stability and a better overall fit.
Iron Rangers
Blacksmiths
My 3345s (right) had no break-in period unlike my 8085s (left)
As it has only be a couple months and they have not be worn everyday, I cannot speak on the longevity of the boots.  I can tell you that in snow and rain, the boots seems to hold up quite well and I have never had any dampness or moisture issues.  The construction is top notch with the 270 degree Goodyear Welt and there have not been any stitching problems.  The hardware is a dull brass color which is beautiful and I love the speed hooks!  Honestly there is not much to complain about; they have even creased rather nicely!  The shock absorption isn't the greatest but that could also be because I rotate these with Thorogoods which have amazing shock absorption, no break-in, and are basically built for comfort!  Besides that little critique, I would say the Blacksmith is very near a perfect boot for me!
Blacksmith with Jeanshop
Blacksmith with Phi Denim
Great in Wet Conditions
Like all my Product Spotlights, I will be doing updates and the boots age.  I am curious to see how these hold up compared to some of my other plain toe boots such as the Thorogood Beloits, and my Chippewa Service Boots.  Only time will tell!
Versus
A Plain Toe Boot Showdown!
The 3345s can be purchased at your local Red Wing Store, on the Red Wing Heritage Website, and at boutique stores such as Franklin & Poe.
The 3345 Blacksmiths are completed with Pisgah Range LTD Chocolate Brown Laces
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The Thorogood 1892 Beloit Indigo Dyed Chromexcel 814-9011: First Impressions

3/22/2019

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1892 Beloits
The Thorogood 1892 Beloit Indigo Dyed Chromexcel 814-9011
Boot Specs:
  • Size: 9
  • Style: Plain Toe Service Boot
  • Leather: Horween Indigo Dyed Chromexcel
  • Outsole: 18 IR Cork w/Vibram 468 Heel
  • Midsole: PORON
  • Composite Shank
  • Insole: Comfort Cushion
  • Welt: 360 Degree Goodyear Storm Welt
  • Hardware: Nickel, Speedhooks
  • Water Resistant
  • Made in the USA
Beloit from Context
The Indigo Dyed Beloit *Photo from Context Clothing

About the Beloit Model:

Here it is, the other pair I got from the Thorogood 1892 Collection: the Indigo Dyed CXL Beloit 814-9011s.  After talking with Clint Greendeer over at Context Clothing (Interview with Clint on the Thorogood Janesville Product Spotlight) and about his favorite 1892 Boots, I had to get another pair!  I was torn between the Beloits and the Tomahawk Lodan Green 814-7011s.  What made me ultimately go with the Beloits was the indigo dyed Chromexcel Leather and the fact that the 6" service style boots just look better on me than taller models.  
The Beloit Boots are inspired by the hardworking farmers at the turn of the 20th century, these handcrafted Beloit boots help today’s growers of art, technology, and manufacturing get the job done in style.  Just like their Janesville Moc-Toe cousin, the boots are named after a small town in Wisconsin.  According to Thorogood, the town of Beloit is known as "the Gateway to Wisconsin" and is the birthplace of the speedometer.  The bit of history that goes along with the 1892 Collection is the cherry on top for me.  I love heritage boots and the story behind them!
Beloit and Friends
Beloit and Pigeon Tree Crafting
Beloits with Other Indigo Dyed Things: Corter Leather Passport Wallet, Pigeon Tree Crafting Quick Release Belt, & 3sixteen's ST-120x Jeans
Pigeon Tree Crafting Feature Page
Corter Leather Indigo Dyed Passport Wallet Product Spotlight
3sixteen St-120x Product Spotlight

Initial Impressions

Once you get the boots out of the box, admire the craftsmanship and beautiful leather, you will be presented with two styles of laces: leather and waxed cotton.  Personally, leather laces make boots much tighter on my feet and break very easily, so I tossed those aside.  The regular laces are just par-for-the-course for me; useable, but nothing special.  Luckily, I have a bunch of Pisgah Range LTD Laces and found the Maroon pair to be the perfect contrasting mate for the boots.
Beloits with 3sixteen
After putting on the laces, I did a quick quality control once over.  The stitching and welting are well done (really like the storm welt) for the most part.  There are a few uneven stitch lines on the heel of the right boot but nothing that would affect them negatively in terms of performance.  It is a meniscal cosmetic flaw that make my pair unique to me and remind me that these boots are truly handmade.
Once getting them on my feet, they were quite comfortable.  The Beloits use the same No. 60 last as my Janesville and the only difference between the two is that the Beloits were a bit tighter towards the front of of my feet at the beginning.  However, after a couple of wears, the Chromexcel leather formed to my feet and I am able to spend all day in them.  Hardly a tough break-in!
I really like the cork sole and Vibram heel combination.  Cork soles are more comfortable than most rubber ones for me, but of course the downside is that they provide less traction.  The rubber heel on the Beloits help balance that out and provide pretty good shock absorption as well.  After doing a little investigating, I found that the exact heel model is the Vibram 468 Comfort Cushion which main compound is SBR.  I have no idea what that is but I like it! 
3sixteen and Beloits 2
Inside the boot, you will find a pair of removable Thorogood insoles that the company provides in most, if not all, their models.  The one issue I can see with the sole is more cosmetic as the Vibram heel is lighter in color than the black sole.  Personally, I don't mind it but I understand why it would bother others.
Cork Sole
Cork Sole with a Great Vibram Heel
The boots went through my usual conditioning method, which darkened the boots ever so slightly, on the first day and made the leather even smoother.  I love the way Chromexcel feels and often find myself running my hand over the boots when I am sitting down (Yes, I am weird).  The normal con, or pro depending on who you ask, with Chromexcel is that it scratches and scuffs easily.  In my opinion, it is cool to see the different shades of blue that appear after a few wears but if you are a person that likes a clean looking boot, you might be polishing these often.  Me?  I work for that patina!
Loose grain seems to be a popular topic in the boot community, particularly when it comes to Chromexcel.  Nick, from the Horween Tannery, explains that more here.  While my pair of Beloits may not be immune to loose grain, it is not prevalent and again, I like when my boots age and look beat up.  What's the point of buying them if you don't wear the heck out of them?!
Stitching
Some uneven Stitching but No Big Deal!
Currently, the Beloits, and the rest of the 1892 Collection by Thorogood, are on sale at stores such as Context Clothing and Milworks.  I read a rumor that the 1892 Line is going on hiatus in May because of Thorogood's new business partnership but I cannot confirm this statement first hand.  Regardless, the sale won't last forever and these boots are already hard to find as it is!  
Context Clothing Logo
1892 Collection Look Book
File Size: 10843 kb
File Type: pdf
Download File

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The Thorogood 1892 Janesville Natural Nantucket Boots 814-3781: First Impressions: Featuring the Boot's Designer, Clint Greendeer!

3/20/2019

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Janesville Ad
The Thorogood Janesville Boots from the 1892 Collection with Red Flannel Pisgah Range LTD Laces
Boot Specs:
  • Size: 9
  • Style: Moc-Toe
  • Leather: Horween Natural Nantucket 
  • Outsole: Vibram Christy
  • Midsole: Rubber
  • Fiberglass Shank
  • Insole: Comfort Cushion/PORON
  • Welt: 360 Degree Goodyear, Storm Welt
  • Hardware: Brass
  • Water Resistant
  • Made in the USA
Janesville
The Thorogood Janesville in Natural Nantucket *Photo from Thorogood

About Thorogood and the Janesville Model:

Thorogood (Weinbrenner Shoe Company) has been making boots since 1892.  The company was started, and still run to this day, in Wisconsin.  It is employee owned and unionized, a rarity in today's fashion world!  ​Thorogood's bestselling boots come from the American Heritage Moc-Toe Line.  The 6" Moc-Toe Work Boots in Tobacco in particular are a favorite among Thorogood followers!
The Janesville Boot is a similarly designed moc-toe boot that is part of Thorogood's 1892 Collection.  All of the boots in this series are named after towns in Wisconsin.   The other boots from this line are pictured below:
Beloit
Beloit
Dodgeville
Dodgeville
Kenosha
Kenosha
Merrill
Merrill
Portage
Portage
Tomahawk
Tomahawk
*All Photos in the Above Gallery from Thorogood
Quite an impressive line up!  This Janesville model, in particular the 814-3781, is a collaboration boot with Clint Greendeer of Context Clothing.  Context Clothing (est. 2005) is located up in Madison, Wisconsin and is a specialty store for well made, heritage clothing; from denim to boots to wallets!  The store had the honor of being named one of of the top ten independent men's clothing stores in the US by GQ Magazine in 2010!

I had the privilege to get to know Clint and ask him a few questions about the Janesville Nantucket Boot and Heritage Clothing.
Context Clothing Logo

Get to Know Clint Greendeer:

Clint Greenwood
The Man, the Myth, the Legend
Janesville in Production
The Janesville in Production
*Photos from Clint Greendeer
How did you get involved with Thorogood?

I (Clint) became familiar with Thorogood while working at Context Clothing.  Ryan and  Sam (of Context Clothing) met with Thorogood to discuss new styles for the 1892 Collection.  They asked me what my ideal Thorogood boot would be, so I started to research vintage Thorogood‘s to gain inspiration.   Ryan and Sam pitched Thorogood my concept of a new boot, and I’m honored that Thorogood put the Janesville in Natural Nantucket 814-3781 into production. 
What about the moc-toe style do you love?

I love the workwear aesthetic, especially when pairing Moc-Toe style boots with selvedge denim. 
Why go with the natural, vegetable tanned leather?  What about it drew you to it over other leathers?

I went with natural leather because of the high contrast patina it develops.  It’s cool to see how the light leather gets darker over time and with more wear. 
Besides the Janesville 814-3781, what other boots do you own that are among your favorites?  Why?

Context 113 Boot 814-1113
Janesville Black 814-6781
Beloit Natural CXL 824-4311


I am a big fan of the Plain Toe Beloit Boot in Natural Chromexcel.  That boot is what influenced me to go with a similar leather for the Janesville in Natural.  The Plain Toe on the Beloit looks great with Chinos for a formal look and goes well with denim for the workwear aesthetic. 

The 113 Boot is a rugged Moc-Toe in oily Horween Plainsman Leather.  I love the natural irregularity in the leather which makes each boot unique to itself and the person wearing them. 
Thorogood 113
The Context Clothing/Thorogood Collaboration Boots- 113s *Photo from Context Clothing
What first got you into vintage items and heritage clothing?

Levi’s 501 denim was my first calling to heritage clothing.  The 501 Jean is a versatile garment that has been worn by many people in so many ways.  I like the approach of soaking a pair of unsanforized 501’s then breaking them in.  The 501s are very versatile!  I believe that adds to the non-verbal expression of how we decide to dress ourselves. 
What cleaning/conditioning/polishing products do you recommend you use with the 814-3781s?

Horsehair Brush
Obenauf’s LP

I recommend a horsehair brush on them every 2-3 wears.  When it comes time for boot care, apply Obenauf’s LP evenly on the boot.  I like to add Obenauf’s to the leather laces so they become more flexible and it holds the knot better. 

Initial Impressions:

I had been looking into getting a pair of moc-toe boots for sometime now.  However, the overall boot style made me worry that a pair would like like clown shoes on my feet.  I had even tried on competitors' boots and were still unsure.  What struck me first about these boots is the beautiful, Natural Nantucket Leather.  It was hard to find much information about this type of leather.  The other Janesville models are made from Horween's famous Chromexcel Leather, a favorite among boot makers and collectors.  The Natural Nantucket is different though and can best be described by Mitchell Leather in the video below:
I love a good patina and the idea of wearing these boots and watching them slowly get a rich, dark brown is something I am very excited about!  So  I decided that I would try out the moc-toe style and got the Janesville Natural Nantucket- 814-3781.
Janesville with Slub
Boy am I glad I did!  Not only do they look great but they are very comfortable out-of-the-box, compared to other moc-toe style boots I have tried on in the past, and did not even need a day of breaking in.  The inclusion of a removable Thorogood Comfort Insole is one of the main reasons for this no break-in period and allows a person to have more possibilities with what socks they wear.  That is a big deal to me as I have the option of taking the insole out in the winter time in order to put on thicker socks!
The Janesville is more simplistic in terms of design compared to their Thorogood Moc-Toe brethren; less stitching and branding, no steel toe etc...  While the Heritage Line boots are made for manual labor, the 1892 Collection is more fashion focused.  That doesn't mean that the 1892 boots aren't meant to get beat up, no, they are tough!  However, I believe these would not pass many regulations for footwear in different industries compared to the Heritage Boots.
Janesville with 3sixteen
Janesville with 3sixteen 2
That being said these boots hold up well in less than ideal conditions.  I trudged them through a muddy hill (which was a bad idea for those pretty white soles) about a week after I got them and they held up (And held me up!) well (although they got really dirty).  The ground has been very wet because of constant rain and melting snow.  I have had no problems with water getting into the boot.  In fact, I ran them once under the faucet after the trip through the mud and not one drop got in.  Just working for that patina!
Janesville Stitched
Quality is Top Notch!
In terms of quality of construction, the boot is very well made.  The Storm Welt is perfect and the upper is stitched to perfection.  There were one or two loose threads (which I have read can be a problem with some Thorogood Boots), however, nothing alarming that will effect the everyday wear of the boots.  I feel people tend to nitpick over the smallest details and forget that products such as these boots are handmade.  Minor cosmetic flaws that are barely visible cause me no concern and makes the pair I own unique to me.  
When it comes to the price, the 1892 Collection is more expensive than other Thorogood boots (however, they do go on sale from time to time) and are competitively in line with the popular Red Wing Heritage Collection.  One of the reasons for the higher cost is that the leathers used to make these boots are of better quality and come from the infamous tannery Horween, which is located in Chicago.  Second, the sole is made by Vibram, which is considered one of the best sole makers in the world for  shoes and boots.  On Thorogoods' other boots, they use their own in house soles that are made specifically for certain work environments and saves on production cost.
Janesville with Jean Ship
I prefer the slimmer profile of the Janesville compared to Thorogood's Heritage moc-toe models.  Like Clint, I think they look great with selvedge denim (if you couldn't tell from the pictures).  Getting to know the man behind this particular design, and the fact that Thorogood is a company that's located one state north of me, puts a stamp of 'authentic heritage' on these boots for me.  I not only own a product from a brand with a rich American history, I also got to put a face to the person who had a hand in the product's creation!  
I will post updates as these boots continue to patina and get beat up!  Special thanks to Clint Greendeer for taking his time to answer questions for this Product Spotlight!

Additional Links and Information

Purchase the Janesville Natural Nantucket 814-3781 from Context Clothing
Address: 113 King St.Madison, WI 53703

All My Heritage Boots Have American Made Pisgah Range LTD Laces!  Check Out Pisgah Range LTD Laces Feature Page
Janesville with Oak Bark
The Best Belt Pair: Janesville With a Carmine Jack Leather Natural Oak Tan Belt
The Thorogood 1892 Collection Look Boot (Download the PDF Below the Slideshow):
1892.pdf
File Size: 10843 kb
File Type: pdf
Download File

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Product Spotlight: Naked & Famous- Kasuri Selvedge (Weird Guy Fit)

1/2/2019

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My Kasuri Selvedge Denim
Naked & Famous Kasuri Selvedge Denim, Weird Guy Fit (Front)
My Kasuri Selvedge Denim 2
Naked & Famous Kasuri Selvedge Denim, Weird Guy Fit (Back)
My pair of Kasuri Selvedge was a great Christmas gift from my soon-to-be bride.  What makes this pair of raw denim unique is the dyeing method: Kasuri.  Kasuri is a traditional Japanese method for dyeing cloth in order to make patterns.  The patterns form because certain threads are bound before the dyeing process so the indigo has a harder time staying on the cloth.  This process is repeated until the desired pattern is formed.  I would recommend clicking the above link to learn more about this interesting Japanese dyeing method.  It really is quite fascinating!
Layout
Kasuri Denim Jeans Fit Perfectly in this Lay!
Awesome dyeing methods aside, the jeans themselves are made from 100% Japanese cotton, are 12.5 oz. in weight, with a waist size of 32" (real size 34").  My pair is from the store, Mildblend, in Chicago and they hemmed the inseam to around 32".  Selvedge IDs are in the usual cuff areas as well as on the coin pocket.  It is important to note that the fly is not selvedge.  Instead, I believe that is area is overlock stitched.  However, don't quote me on that!
The thread used is more of a passive gold which is a nice contrast to the shades of blue, black, and white of the denim itself.  All of the hardware is branded with Naked & Famous and they decided to go with a black leather (although I have seen it listed as blue) patch branded with their usual logo.  The overall fit is Naked & Famous's Weird Guy which, according to their website, is the most popular and is a "standard" cut.  In regards to the sewing of the inseam, it seems to be a flat-fell seam which will have pretty good fraying resistance.
Now for the best part: the actual denim.  At the bottom of the page I posted some close ups of the jeans.  The Kasuri dyeing has made unique textures on the jeans with blue, black (or dark blue), and white all being in the mix.  The white is from the weft, the blue is the indigo from the warp, and the black/darker blue is due to the dyeing method.  From farther back, the denim look like a regular dark wash pair.  It is when you get up close that you see all the details that sets it apart from your typical pair of jeans.  The lighting also makes a difference.  As you can see in the pictures below, there is a major difference between the jeans when they are in natural lighting versus when they are not.
3sixteen and Naked & Famous
Great Denim Christmas! Pictured with 3sixteen's NT-15x.
I have only worn the pair of handful of times but it looks like the much sought after honeycomb fades will be look as good as the best of them.  There was no break in period for the jeans as they are of a lighter weight.  I plan on wearing them as my main summer pair and am really looking forward to seeing their evolution after the hot weather ends!
Naked & Famous Kasuri Selvedge Denim Weird Guy
Natural Lighting
Naked & Famous  Kasuri Selvedge Denim Weird Guy 2
Natural Lighting Pic 2
Naked & Famous Kasuri Selvedge Denim Weird Guy 3
Natural Lighting Pic 3
Naked & Famous Kasuri Selvedge Denim Weird Guy 4
Indoor Lighting
Naked & Famous  Kasuri Selvedge Denim Weird Guy 5
Indoor Lighting 2
Naked & Famous Kasuri Selvedge Denim Weird Guy 6
Indoor Lighting 3
Purchase Naked & Famous's Kasuri Selvedge Denim Jeans
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Indigo Dyed Travel Wallet Made By Corter Leather & Cloth

12/11/2018

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Corter Indigo Dyed Travel Wallet 1
Corter Indigo Dyed Travel Wallet
Corter Indigo Dyed Travel Wallet 3
Corter Indigo Dyed Travel Wallet 2
The Indigo Dyed Travel Wallet made by Corter Leather & Cloth was the passport holder I was looking for!  For starters, I, as you probably know, love denim so any product with "indigo" in the description automatically grabs my attention.  
The Travel Wallet is part of Corter's 2016 Special Edition Indigo Collection; which also includes indigo dyed Bifold, Mechanic's, Standard Card, & Standard Card Sleeve Wallets.  The leather used for this collection is Latigo Leather that the company drum dyed themselves "to be reminiscent of freshly oxidized indigo."  Corter also states that the leather is "then hot stuffed by hand with waxes and oils to be soft and ready to use. It will age darker over time, burnishing in spots of high wear and developing a deep blue patina." 
Corter Brass Hardware and Patina
Brass Hardware. Beautiful Patina
Upon receiving my Travel Wallet (On the same day my passport came haha!), I was able to feel how soft the leather is.  Not only does the leather feel great, it looks beautiful as well (just look at any of the pictures)!  As for the overall quality, it is top notch.  The majority of the wallet is perfectly saddle stitched twice (which means it was done entirely by hand, no machines) with matching indigo thread.  The result is a stronger, more sturdy leathercraft product than if the wallet was made with a machine.
Corter Travel Wallet and Corter BiFold Wallet
The Indigo Dyed Travel Wallet with another Corter Wallet
In fact, the wallet initially was strong that I had trouble putting my passport into it and taking it out!  I left my all important ID booklet in the wallet (I mean that's what it's for anyways) and it loosened up overtime by forming to the shape of the passport.  In addition to the passport pocket, there are two card slots inside and a boarding pass slot on the outside in the back.  The flap is secured with a signature brass snap and there's a branded split ring sewn onto the top of the wallet.  To finish it off, the edges are burnished and waxed.
The split ring is another reason I chose the Travel Wallet as I was able to hook it to a key fob and attach it securely to my belt while keeping it in my front pocket on my trip to Italy.  Unnecessary?  Probably, but hey, I had peace of mind!
Corter Stitching
Double Saddle Stitched
Corter Burnished Edges
Waxed & Burnished Edges
The Travel Wallet has aged quite nicely.  The edges in particular are developing a nice, dark patina.  The places where the dye soaked in the leather more are starting to stand out, making the wallet more personal and unique to me.  The quality of the leather and overall construction will most likely lead to this wallet being the only passport holder I'll need in my lifetime!  I hope to "travel" with the Corter Leather & Cloth Indigo Dyed Travel Wallet many more times!  
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The Dakota Satchel by Portland Leather Goods

12/10/2018

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Dakota Satchel 1
The Dakota Leather Satchel Bag has been on many adventures with me and it has held up very well.  The bag is made by Portland Leather Goods based out of, you guessed it, Portland, Oregon.
The design of the bag is simple: brass hardware with a magnetic snap closure, a lengthly shoulder/crossbody strap, an inside pocket...  There really is not that much else to it!  Size wise, the bag is 11" x 9" x 2" and the largest items it can hold for me (at the same time) is my Amazon Tablet (10.3" x 6.3") and my Swell Water Bottle (11.9" tall).  The flap is long enough to make up for taller products, such as my water bottle, and will still close securely.
The hardware used is brass and feels very sturdy.  On my trip to Rome, I would carry many items with me (including a precious engagement ring), making it quite heavy at times.  The satchel never felt like it was about to fall apart.  To go with the rugged hardware, the construction was equally impressive.  On their website, Portland Leather Goods states that it uses industrial sewing machines and waxed thread to put their products together.  When I examined the bag upon arrival, there seemed to have been lots of care gone into making my bag because the stitching was very well done.  This satchel is truly "handmade" and not massed produced.
Dakota Satchel 2
Leather Bag for My Leather Stuff
So good hardware?  Check.  Quality construction?  Check.  Practical, yet aesthetically pleasing design?  Check.  But how is the leather?  Portland Leather uses oil-tanned, full grain leather that is conditioned to be water repellent.  It is recommended by the company that you do not condition the bag for at least six months and that you let the bag get scratched and scuffed without worry.  The result is a beautiful patina developed over time.
Dakota Satchel 3
Very Well Packaged
I have used my bag almost everyday for the last six months and it has aged gracefully.  The backside has smoothed out and darkened due to hitting against my denim jeans and jackets and from prolonged exposure to my body heat (translation: my sweat).  All the scratches and wrinkles don't look bad, instead the bag looks well used and rugged.  No loose stitching, no broken hardware, and no water damage (it has gotten stuck with me in several storms).  It is comfortable to wear for long hours because of the strong and, easily adjustable, strap.  I really like how the strap's construction allows you to wear the bag in anyway, and at any length, you please.  
My one critique of the bag would be to possibly have a different closing mechanism as it is really simple for someone to open the satchel and grab your personal belongings.  The magnet makes it very easy to quickly get into but personally, I'd rather have it be more secure.  I sometimes wear my satchel across my body and in front, not on my side, so I can better keep an eye on it.  This bag definitely isn't for carrying around top secret information and very valuable items (I probably shouldn't have put the engagement ring in there).
Other than that one criticism, this bag has been at my side (or front) for awhile now and getting heavy use.  Portland Leather Goods did an overall excellent job with the design, hardware, and construction.  If you order one from them, you will receive your items based on how busy they are.  I got my satchel in about two weeks which is really quick for a handmade good!  The packaging is excellent and it comes with leather care tips and some other well written and designed reading material.  
Dakota Satchel 4
Sturdy Straps
The satchel is currently available in another leather as well: Grizzly (darker leather).  It is a perfect everyday bag for your everyday carries.  While it is under their "Women" section, this bag is great for anyone looking for something unique, yet purposeful.  It will come on many more adventures with me and hopefully last me a lifetime! 
Dakota Bag Open
Dakota Bag Open 2
Plenty of Room for Personal Items
Dakota Bag Patina
Dakota Bag Patina 2
Dakota Bag Patina 3
Dakota Bag Patina 4
Hardware & Stitching Holding Strong While the Leather Develops a Nice Patina
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ST-120X Shadow Selvedge Denim Jeans by 3sixteen

12/4/2018

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Chicago isn't known for having the best selection of brick and mortar stores that cater to people who are into quality clothing and goods.  If you live in the suburbs, most likely you have to make a day trip into the downtown area to find a boutique or specialty store.  One such store in Chicago is Mildblend, a place that sells raw denim, well-made boots, and other quality items.  
Mildblend has a great atmosphere and very friendly staff.  At the time, I was really having trouble finding raw denim jeans that fit my frame.  I wanted a slim fit, but not too skinny that my legs didn't get any oxygen either.  It was overwhelming at first looking at their selection.  Luckily, one of their employees assisted me on finding the perfect pair.
After trying on about five pairs, I decided on the ST-120x by 3sixteen model because of the fit, design, and overall look.  Listed below are some of the jean's specifications:
  • Sanforized, Raw, Selvedge
  • Custom 14.5 oz. Indigo Fabric (mid-weight) from Kuroki Mills
  • Custom Gun Metal Hardware
  • Leather Patch from Tanner Goods
  • Slim, Tapered Fit
  • Flat Fell Stitched Inseam is 37", Mildblend did  free chain stitched hemming and they now sit around 32"
  • Made in the U.S.A
The fabric is probably my favorite denim out there!  3sixteen describes it as "indigo warp and black weft threads."  The jeans are definitely dark in color and could be seen as black, not indigo, in certain lighting.  That's one of the reasons I love jeans!
With such a dark color and no fades, I was easily able to dress the jeans up.  Church?  Jeans.  Work?  Jeans.  Wedding?  No, just kidding on that one.  Regardless of if I should have worn them to a wedding or not, the 3sixteen's look great as part of almost any outfit!
My 3sixteens 1
Denim on Denim is my Usual
My 3sixteens 2
The ST-120x Jeans can be Easily Dressed Up!
The one con of the Shadow Selvedge is that it attracts dog hair like non other.  My lint roller as been the jean's best friend!  Yes, the sticky sheets do remove some indigo, but definitely not enough to effect fading.
Since getting my ST-120x jeans, I have worn them constantly for the last seven months.  They have been on many adventures: Rome, got engaged in them, worn them during presentations, taught classes in them...  Yes, I have definitely gotten my money's worth with this pair!  
Despite all those adventures, the fades have developed slowly...  Which I like.  I will never understand why people will roll around in sand to purposely get "cool fades."  (To each their own!) As of right now, the jeans have had the most fading in the back and front pocket areas.  The knees and leg openings are also starting to see some wear. 
I truly love these slow fading jeans as they are a great "project" to have that hopefully will take me many more months/years before it's retirement.  So far, the pair has not been soaked.  However, they have been washed twice in the bath tub with detergent and then air dried.  I think it is important to clean your jeans when they are dirty...  Unless you want to be alone the rest of your life.
My 3sixteens 4
The Jeans in Rome!
Check out the close up of the ST-120x Jeans below:

The Jeans

My 3sixteens 5
ST-120x After Seven Months of Constant Wear & Two Washes
3sixteens Hardware
Custom Labeled Gun Metal Hardware
3sixteen Pockets
Front Pocket Fading
3sixteen Fades
Back Pocket Fading 
3sixteen Knees
Just a bit of wear starting to show around the knee
3sixteen Leather Patch
Full Grain Leather Patch (also a belt loop)
3sixteen Selvedge ID
Selvedge Outseam & Flat Fell Stitched Inseam
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